KALMANOVICH INTERVIEW
Designer Spotlight · Antakly Projects
Julia Kalmanovich
The Moscow-born designer dressing confident, modern women in sequins, tulle, and unapologetic glamour
There is a specific kind of woman Julia Kalmanovich designs for — young, successful, confident, active. A woman who walks into a room and knows exactly why she chose that dress. Since founding her Moscow-based label in 2009, Kalmanovich has dedicated herself to serving that woman: with sequin-adorned minidresses, dramatic balloon sleeves, and the kind of sparkling red gown that sells out before the season begins.
Her path to fashion was circuitous and honest: she studied economics, discovered she could not ignore the feeling she got in fabric shops, and chose to follow it. She apprenticed under Slava Zaitsev — the so-called Patriarch of Russian fashion — who encouraged her to stay rooted in her origins. Russian street style remains one of her greatest sources of inspiration to this day.
Launched at Ural Fashion Week in 2006 as part of a young designer collective, and operating as an independent house ever since, Kalmanovich has grown from a couture studio into an internationally recognised ready-to-wear label — with the AW20 collection featured on Moda Operandi's coveted trunkshow.
01 · Origins
What is your first memory of fashion?
While I was studying at Plekhanov Russian University of Economics I became interested in learning to sew. The inspiration I felt while visiting the fabric shop evoked a feeling in me that I could not ignore — the different feel, textures and colours inspired me to create, and this is when I decided I wanted to become a designer.
02 · Inspiration
What are your greatest influences?
My inspiration never comes from a specific theme, like many other designers have. I get inspiration from everything — whether it's people on the street, or art, or movies. It all depends on what I am into at the time.
"
Paris has always been the city known for the best-dressed women. But the women of Stockholm struck me — they really know how to mix high fashion with mass-market labels.
— Julia Kalmanovich
03 · The Client
Do you have a specific person in mind when you design your collections?
I always keep my clients in mind when designing — young, successful, confident, and active girls. Paris has always been the city known for the best-dressed and most stylish women. But the women of Stockholm struck me — there are many very trendy young ladies there who really know how to mix high fashion with mass-market labels.
04 · Icons
Fashion icons?
My number one icon is my mother. I also love the style of the Olsen twins and Alexa Chung.
Her Style in Three Words
Spontaneous
Unplanned, instinct-led. Inspiration follows no fixed theme.
Effortless
The most elaborate gown should look like it arrived naturally.
Eclectic
Street, art, film, theatre — everything feeds the work.
Favourite References
Her Mother
Classical style. The first and most enduring influence.
Olsen Twins
Effortless luxury. Understated maximalism done right.
Alexa Chung
Eclectic, knowing, always slightly ahead of the moment.
Slava Zaitsev
The Patriarch of Russian fashion. Mentor. Taught her to stay true to her roots.
In Partnership
LuxCartel
Fashion Incubator · New York · Est. 2011
"Russian women love to do things well — Russians want the home no one else has, the food no one else has tried, and the fashion no one else has."
Founded by Moscow native Natalya Poniatowski, LuxCartel is a New York-based fashion incubator that since 2011 has nurtured emerging international brands into what Poniatowski calls "cult phenomenons." Kalmanovich is among its most celebrated clients.
Operating from Soho, Poniatowski — who formerly worked in finance — has built a business around finding little-known designers and turning them into the fashion world's most talked-about names. Other brands supported by LuxCartel include Lebanese jeweller Sabine G and American handbag line Tyler Alexandra.
"It's our job for them to blow up," she says. "That's what we do for our designers — so when that happens we're very happy, because that's the synergy between us and them creating something amazing."
Founded
2011, New York (Soho)
CEO & Founder
Natalya Poniatowski
Services
Consulting, Public Relations, Sales
Brands Supported
Kalmanovich · Sabine G · Tyler Alexandra · Sydney Albertini
Notable Placement
Fivestory, New York — capsule collection with Sydney Albertini
