A Todd Oldham Cover Shoot for Hotel Venus Magazine

Todd Oldham: A Magazine Cover for Patricia Field | Antakly Projects
Antakly Projects  ·  Conversation No. 001  ·  October 2003

Todd Oldham

A magazine cover for Patricia Field and why I somehow ended up here.

Fashion · Photography · Downtown New York Words & Photograph by Leila Antakly The first entry in the archive

I work in finance. I am not sure I will do this forever, and please do not ask me how or why, because I have absolutely no idea what I am doing. really.

Three years ago I thought I was on the verge of my dream career. Fashion magazines. Editorial shoots. Ever since I was a teenager, I collected magazines the way other people collected records. I never imagined I would end up in the financial world in New York.

And yet here I am. The funny thing is, I kind of like it, but need to keep one toe in the fashion world.

The conversation that started everything
Todd Oldham photographed on a tufted couch for the Texas Twenty
Todd Oldham · Texas Twenty
A Todd Oldham runway look, an airbrushed tee with a red and black sequined skirt
The clothes · sequins, airbrush, joy · 1990s runway
Who he is, for the record

For anyone who has been paying attention during the last decade, Todd Oldham is not simply a designer.

The colors. The optimism. The sparkles. The irreverence. The glorious refusal to take fashion too seriously. His collections somehow managed to feel handmade and extravagant at the same time. Sequins, crystals, wild prints, thrift-store references, craftsmanship, humor. Everything collided beautifully.

Lately he seems increasingly interested in moving beyond fashion altogether, into photography full time. You can see where it is heading at the Todd Oldham Studio photography gallery.

"Todd Oldham is the 1990s. The colors, the optimism, the glorious refusal to take fashion too seriously."
Leila Antakly
The Essay

Before this unexpected detour, I worked at Vogue Italia. I stayed for as long as I could tolerate my completely insane boss.

I had imagined she was one of those fabulous women who had sacrificed everything for a brilliant career. Independent. Strong. Larger than life. Within a few months I realized there was another explanation. She was not single and chain-smoking because she wanted to be. No sane person would voluntarily spend that much time around her. I am not naming names. But she was awful. Eventually I left.

I was genuinely sad to go, because there were so many extraordinary people there. Michael Philouze remains one of my favorite partners in crime, and someone I am convinced will have a major impact on the fashion industry.

Looking back, I have nothing but gratitude for the experience. I met photographers, editors, stylists, gallery owners, architects, artists, and all the people who exist behind the glossy pages. While helping organize an event for the 30th Anniversary of L'Uomo Vogue at Lehmann Maupin Gallery, I found myself surrounded by people whose influence extended far beyond fashion.

The more time I spent around Vogue, the more I realized that fashion was not really about clothes. It was about ideas. Fashion simply happened to be the vehicle. So while I had decided I could not keep working for a lunatic, I was not quite ready to leave the world behind.

Which brings me to Patricia Field

I've been visiting Patricia Field's store on West Broadway as part of my weekend ritual. Walking into that store feels like stepping into an alternate universe where rules do not apply.

When the opportunity came along to join Hotel Venus as a special projects editor, I could not say no. Like everything she touches, Patricia Field brings together an unlikely cast of characters, each possessing their own strange kind of genius.

Our first cover shoot featured Armen Ra, photographed by Todd Oldham.

The Artifact

Hotel Venus, in the flesh

Two issues of Hotel Venus magazine, including the Armen Ra cover photographed by Todd Oldham
Hotel Venus · Todd Oldham cover · 2000

Special guest cover photographer: Todd Oldham. Inside, an interview with Patricia Field, the local color of West Broadway, the multimedia artist Floria Sigismondi, and this month's Miss Venus. It is exactly the unlikely collision Patricia is so good at engineering, and Todd's portrait of Armen sits at the center of it like a held breath.

Friction with the Fashion Cycle

What fascinates me most is that Todd seems increasingly interested in moving beyond fashion. And honestly, I understand why.

He has grown frustrated with the fundamental structure of the business. The industry requires designers to render their own work completely obsolete every six months, to force new sales. Create something beautiful. Sell it. Forget it. Move on. For a multidisciplinary maker who values longevity and accessibility, that cycle is wasteful and artistically restrictive.

So he is winding the wholesale apparel business down. If you want the origin story of everything he is now stepping away from, read how Todd Oldham built a fashion empire with fifty dollars and a bolt of fabric.

Photography is a natural fallback. He has already spent more than a decade orchestrating the visual presentation, the sets, and the imagery for his own brand. Photography lets him capture permanent artistic expressions instead of fleeting retail products.

The end of an empire,
by his own design
"Instead of producing objects destined for clearance racks, you are creating images that can survive."
On why photography pulls him in
The photograph
Leila Antakly photographed by Todd Oldham while he set up lighting for Armen Ra
Leila, photographed by Todd Oldham · on set, 2000

He pointed the camera back at me between setups for lighting set up. This is the only frame I kept.

And then there is Armen Ra

Armen is impossible to describe properly if you have never met him. A downtown New York legend. The kind of person who seems to exist slightly outside of conventional reality. The connection between Todd and Armen goes back a bit, I think. Armen designed those wonderfully ridiculous cubic zirconia cocktail rings that became a signature part of Todd's world. Massive stones. Glamour bordering on absurdity. Exactly the sort of thing that made both of them so much fun.

Watching them together feels less like a photoshoot and more like two old collaborators continuing an ongoing conversation. You can follow Armen on Instagram.

This is one of the things I love most about New York. You start out thinking you are interested in fashion. Then suddenly you are talking to artists, musicians, architects, club kids, photographers, gallery owners, and people who refuse to fit neatly into any category. Everyone overlaps. Everyone influences everyone else. And before you know it, you have accidentally wandered into an entirely different world.

Which is probably how I ended up in finance.

Keep up with the work @toddoldham His current projects, his color, his curiosity, all of it in real time.
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Where it all began,

Leila Antakly
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