Beijing Travel Diary
Art District 798艺术区 · Dashanzi, Chaoyang
It was my first time in China and I must say I absolutely adored Beijing. So much of the city surprised me. This travel diary is about one of my favourite travel surprises in all my travels: the 798 Art District in Dashanzi, an old industrial area that has been transformed into one of the most exciting contemporary art communities in Asia. I explored it with my best friend Hichiro.
The 798 Art District began its transformation in the early 2000s. The area was originally built in the 1950s as part of a joint project between China and East Germany to establish a state-owned factory complex. The Bauhaus-influenced architecture, with its spacious, light-filled workshops, provided the perfect setting for artists who started moving in as factories began to close in the late 20th century. Today it is a sprawling maze of galleries, studios, design firms, cafes, bookshops, and sculpture gardens anchored by the UCCA Center for Contemporary Art.
Technically, Factory 798 is only one of several structures inside the complex, formerly known as the 718 Joint Factory. The buildings sit within alleys number 2 and 4 on Jiuxianqiao Lu, south of the Dashanzi flyover. In recent years the district has been the main venue for both the Beijing Queer Film Festival and Beijing Design Week.
"So unexpectedly, this has been one of my favourite travel surprises in all my travels."
The largest and most visited venue in the district. The anchor of 798 and the essential first stop. Do not miss it.
Hidden on the far eastern side of the complex, most visitors never find it. An elevated stretch with epic views across the industrial landscape and the disused train line below. Quite beautiful in a raw way.
The best example of German Bauhaus design in the area. A perfect sawtooth roof, East German factory equipment still rooted to the floor, and red propaganda slogans on the ceiling: "Chairman Mao is the Sunshine In Our Hearts."
The most impressive lesser-known restaurant in the area. Rows of old TV sets on the walls, kitsch 1950s flasks, grit-chic aesthetic. Succulent and spicy Hunan province recipes. Most dishes are described in Chinese, so bring a local speaker.
One of the best boutiques in Beijing thanks to its expert curation and focus on local artists and design talent. Sculptures by Sui Jianguo (one of 798's founding fathers), clothing, watches, notebooks, and lifestyle objects.
International galleries including PACE and Faurschou, fabulous Bauhaus architecture, and the statue of the winged horse erected to commemorate Kim Il Sung's visit. Slightly hard to find and well worth it.
After UCCA, keep walking east and you'll find the remnants of a 1950s extension to Beijing's railway line, used to transport factory materials from East Germany via Russia. The disused tracks, station, and carriages still remain in place.
798 Art District / 4 Jiuxianqiao Lu / Chaoyang District, Beijing. The area is open daily and free to enter. Most galleries are free; some have small admission fees.
A luxury mall that is also a contemporary art museum
The first Green mall in China, Park View Green (侨福芳草地) is not just a luxury shopping mall. The space features over 500 original artworks, including one of the largest private collections of Salvador Dali sculptures outside of Europe. The architecture is spectacular and the art collection is unbelievable. And when you are there, do not miss Opera, the fantastic Italian restaurant also located inside.
parkviewgreen.com →
