Laura Theiss Knitwear
Laura
Theiss
Knitwear is like her mother tongue, embedded in her DNA. She learned to knit at seven in Lithuania, graduated from Central Saint Martins, and now reinvents crochet with laser-cutting, ultrasound melting, and seamless technology.
Lithuanian-born · Central Saint Martins, 2009 · London · featured alongside Chanel and WestwoodBased in London, Laura Theiss creates contemporary and timeless knitwear collections for women. The bold, yet feminine aesthetic at the core of the brand gives a modern edge to knitwear, bringing it into the future. An alumna of Central Saint Martins, she launched her eponymous brand in 2010 after her intricate designs attracted the attention of international buyers. OnOff Presents then invited her to showcase her designs in London and Paris, and Jenny Udale named her as one of the best knitwear designers in her book, Fashion Knitwear.
“It is a sort of language embedded in my DNA. I find it easy to express myself through it.”
Surrounded by knit and crochet in Lithuania, Theiss started to learn the craft at the age of seven. Taking an audacious approach to design, she chooses to ignore conventional methods: starting with a simple needle, she creates silhouettes and volume by draping knitted fabrics from the human form. By juxtaposing the traditional with the current, she pays homage to established methods while reinventing them in her own original way.
The craft is kept alive through her signature crochet lace pieces, platted cable knits and three-dimensional patterns. Working closely with high-tech Italian company Bond Factory, she has devised new cutting-edge processes such as laser-cutting, seamless technology and ultrasound melting. Digital templates are thermo-welded with aluminium, holographic and metallic foils are then bonded, creating unique fabrics and textures.
The Far East, and a needle that started it all.
“I am fascinated by Far East countries, people and culture. Before I start a new collection I always try to find something interesting: a story, a future trend, a form, a shape. And then, after detailed research, I translate it into the knitwear. My techniques are influenced by my original heritage. I was born and grew up in Lithuania, where handmade art is taught to every girl. I was lucky to learn it at the age of seven.”
Walk the markets. Talk to people. Then drape on a mannequin.
“As a designer, you must try to be inspired by everything, including your daily routine and the environment where you live and work. You can then mix them with your imagination, and inspirations coming from other places. In my case, the Far East countries, national costumes, traditional knitwear, and sci-fi movies.”
“When I am travelling around the globe, I do not usually go to museums, but I am far more interested in the real city life. I enjoy walking around, exploring local markets, talking to people, taking pictures, and of course visiting some thread and fabric shops. Sometimes I do the sketches first to get the silhouette, but quite often I work on a mannequin, putting bits of knit and knitted fabric swatches on the figure and creating on a 3D figure. Each collection is unique, as I try to create a fashion statement and tell a story through my designs.”
In 2012, she exhibited designs in Maglifico! Sublime Italian Landscape, held in Milan’s Palazzo Morando, featured alongside Chanel, Vivienne Westwood and Yves Saint Laurent, and then in the follow-up book by Federico Poletti celebrating modern knitwear. In 2013, she was asked by Elephant Family to create a mask for their fundraising event The Animal Ball, where she met HRH Prince Charles. She created a purple statement butterfly mask in her known crochet style, which was then auctioned for charity.
ninunina.com, of course: a great mix of creative people sharing their ideas, inspiration and lifestyle. Irene Brination, notes on art, fashion and style. And Dazed Digital.
“Each collection is unique. I try to create a fashion statement and tell a story through my designs.”
Antakly Projects, originally Ninu Nina, has been in conversation with the most inspiring voices in art, photography, design and culture since 2003. Interview by Leila Antakly. Laura Theiss turns thread into architecture and crochet into a language the future can read.
All works and images © Laura Theiss. Thank you to Laura for the conversation.
Explore the full Antakly archive →
And for the personal rants on life, opinions you didn’t ask for, and the occasional existential spiral: follow me on Substack. Follow us at @antakly.projects on Instagram.
A needle, a thread, a language. ✦
Credits: Photographer: Ellis Scott Styling: Kabir Model: Tiffany@Model1
