Photo Diary from Goa - Antakly Projects
Magical
Goa
Paddy fields and hidden shacks, gypset boutiques and Burmese kitchens, a French-Provencal table on the sand, and a market that has not changed since 1970. Goa leaves a piece of itself in you.
"The best experiences are not obvious. They are hidden in the paddy fields and the villages inland: the shack where the five-star chef eats on his day off, the home studios of designers, the workshops of artists who thrive in Goa's creative landscape."
I recently returned from a magical trip to Goa and Mumbai, and Goa in particular left a mark that is difficult to describe without sounding evangelical about it. The place has a quality that most travel destinations have traded away: it still has a soul. You feel it on the road between Siolim and Calangute, where the light falls through the palm trees at a particular angle in the late afternoon. You feel it at the Mapusa market on a Friday, in the riot of colour and noise and the complete indifference to being picturesque. And you feel it at Anjuna on a Wednesday, where the flea market crowd seems to have arrived directly from 1972 and shows no signs of leaving.
First, a huge thank you to Dana Alikhani of Muzungu Sisters for recommending Love Goa by Fiona Caulfield. Her detailed city guides of India are absolute treasures, and this one was the perfect companion: a book of secrets that reveals true insider experiences in the state, from the best pao bhaji to the inside track on cutting-edge fashion, from five-star places to stay to private villas and luxury tents in the paddy fields. This book is not about simply getting a sense of the state. It is about digging deep into its heart. Which is the only approach worth taking.
We explored North Goa by scooter, which I cannot recommend highly enough. The freedom to stop wherever the road suggests, to take the narrow lane into the village rather than the highway, to find the family restaurant because you followed the smell: this is the only honest way to encounter Goa. The Saturday Night Hippie Market was a total vibe, exactly the kind of organised chaos that Goa does better than anywhere. The gypset-style shopping in the boutiques scattered between Siolim and Calangute was genuinely good: independent designers, interesting textiles, the kind of finds that do not exist in airports.
The shopping at The Shop by Nana Ki on Ashvem Beach deserves its own mention. Beautiful things, beautifully curated, the kind of shop that makes you want to rethink your entire wardrobe. And then, because the beach was right there, you go for a swim and eat lunch at Plage, the French-Provencal restaurant that has been on Ashvem since its beginnings as a five-table spot and has never lost the quality or the spirit that made it special. The food is excellent and it is the perfect place to linger after a swim. We have been patrons since the early days. Some things you do not need to change.
"Goa still has a soul. You feel it on the road between Siolim and Calangute, in the light through the palm trees. You feel it at the Mapusa market on a Friday. You feel it at Anjuna on a Wednesday, where the crowd seems to have arrived from 1972 and shows no signs of leaving."
Leila Antakly · Travel diary, GoaWe stayed at the beautifully restored Siolim House in North Goa, and I could not be happier with the choice. The owners, Varun and Lucy, are warm, fun, and full of local insight: exactly the kind of hosts who make a place feel like it is genuinely theirs rather than a product they are running. The villa itself is full of charm, with incredible yoga lessons, cookery classes, and a real sense of tranquility. If you are going to Goa, this is the kind of base that makes everything else better.
siolimhouse.com ↗Open every day, but Friday is when it is at its best. A riot of colours: ambulant merchants, villagers selling plants, shops selling silver and gold, gypsies, fruit and vegetable sellers. A truly local experience, completely distinct from the tourist-focused markets. Spices, pottery, locally made fabrics, clothes made to measure for a fraction of the cost. The best introduction to what Goa actually is.
The famous Wednesday market remains a staple for unique finds and the hippie legacy of the region. Arriving there, first impressions: this is a place that has not evolved much since the late 1960s. An interesting, eclectic crowd. Lots of oldish hippies. Hippie meets hipster. The kind of place that should probably not still exist, and is all the better for doing so.
For a different vibe, the Night Market in Arpora offers a well-organised mix of traditional handicrafts, silver jewellery, and cool Goan clothing alongside live music and food stalls. More polished than Anjuna, more local than the beach-road boutiques. The Saturday Night Hippie Market was a total vibe. Go hungry.
Chef Salim brings his experience from Ibiza's top restaurants to this gem in Assagao. His European-fusion menu has consistently wowed for years. Cool, eclectic, delicious. One of our highlights of the trip.
Our favourite restaurant of the trip. Flavorful, surprising, completely its own thing. Burmese cuisine done with real confidence and care. Book ahead.
A simple family restaurant serving Hindu-style cuisine. No frills. The focus is entirely on the fresh catch. Try the Chonak Rava Fry for a meal you will remember. For a real taste of Goa, this is it.
French Provencal-style right on the beach. We have been patrons since their humble beginnings as a five-table spot. The food is excellent and it is the perfect place to linger after a swim. Some things you do not need to change.
A blast. Great views, great energy, great for a long evening with friends. The kind of place that makes you want to stay for one more drink. And then another.
Beautiful finds, beautifully curated. The kind of shop that makes you rethink your entire wardrobe. On Ashvem Beach, which means you can swim afterwards. A very good combination.
Like a book of secrets, Love Goa reveals true insider experiences in the state: from the best pao bhaji to the inside track on where to buy cutting-edge fashion, from magical places to stay to the home studios of designers and the workshops of artists who thrive in Goa's creative landscape. The best experiences are not obvious. They are hidden in the paddy fields and the villages inland. This book knows where they are. Highly recommended.
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More travel writing and personal essays from Leila Antakly on Substack.
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Love Goa Fiona Caulfield
shopping goa
bomras Goa
The shop by Nana Ki Ashvem beach
the shop by Nana Ki
Jade Jagger Ashvem Beach